View across the Agora, looking up to the city's ancient citadel atop Panos Hill, now Kadifekale.
A Wet Weekend in Istanbul
Türkiye
October 1, 2023
With a weekend to spend in Istanbul, Carla explores Istiklal and visits the newly refurbished Archaeological Museum. All in the pouring rain!
The soft afternoon sunlight was quickly overcome by dark grey rolling clouds, a rumble of thunder and rain so heavy the coach driver had to cut our speed in half. A short time later the storm god (Zeus or Tarhunt, take your pick) relented, but only barely. Angry skies followed us all the way into Istanbul, where I jumped into a taxi to take me to my hotel. The rain forebore just enough for me to get from taxi door to hotel door. Good, because my soft travelling shoes are now completely worn through and as comforting as a sieve.
Istiklal
I chose my hotel because of its emotionally inspiring name. Reality is something else; but it is ideally located just off Istiklal, Istanbul’s famous street (the one with the trams) and my favorite. Unpacked and stretched out in my room, I waited for the rain to abate. And waited. A timeless age later, the rain and brusque wind abated enough for me to take a stroll up and down Istiklal. Everyone in town decided to do the same, of course, so the occasional tram struggled to make it through the dense throngs of people.
My favorite sights: the men ceremonially making ice cream cones (its a true art, almost acrobatic), stands with the chocolate fountains and others with roast chestnuts. And the trams, of course.
First I coursed along with the crowd down towards Pera. The shop fronts are newer and more internationalized – global brands everywhere, blaring out their names in rippling cascades of color and video clips. I turned back at the wrought iron gates of Galatasaray college; this being the birthplace of the famous football club. Cutting into side streets on the way back up to Taksim Square, I found many are now completely occupied by delightful and inviting eateries of all types – many more than my last time here in 2019. Down one of these, past the long lines of cafés and bars, lies the Galatasaray Hammam, allegedly the oldest working hammam in Istanbul.
I walked to Taksim Square, one of the great popular gathering places for people, both to walk in the open space, still with a piece of the park that once stood here, or as a place to protest for or against the issues of the day.
No sooner had I arrived than drizzle then showers of rain scattered themselves across Taksim, everyone skittling away to look for cover. I shrugged my way back down Istiklal’s bright, reflected lights, turned a corner and some paces later dripped my way into the hotel.
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It rained all through the night. My room, set high in the building, faced onto a small interior light well, now much diminished by additions the tenants have made through time. On the way down the rain hammered on plastic sheeting, metal bars, struts and steps, to bounce back in the air after hitting the corrugated fiberglass roof of the otherwise silent jazz bar below. Over this, the irate bellowing of two tenants who seem to be permanently angry with each other. Tiredness eventually brought sleep.
Not much better the following morning, I stayed in my room until, after many failed attempts, the scatterings of rain let up. Picked up my gear and started up Istiklal again. Barely onto Taksim Squre, the skies dumped an abundance of rain on all. Drenched, I hailed one of the slow moving taxis, jumped in and commanded him to take me to the Archeological Museum, Istanbul’s renowned museum that exhibits statues and fine pieces from ancient times. I know this place well; the last time I was here was back in 2019, when a great part of it was being refurbished; I wanted to see it all over again.
“That will be 350 lira”, the driver said, over his shoulder.
“What! The normal tariff is around 100 lira!” I protested.
“It’s raining.” A very dry reply.
“I know, that’s why I hailed you – otherwise I would normally walk!” That’s a 2+ kilometer walk, mind you.
“Take it or leave it.”
“OK. Take me there.”
The traffic was jammed all the way down to the Golden Horn, across the bridge, and up the steep hill towards Topkapi. The rain torrented down the roads, the sidewalks, the gutters. I pulled him up short.
“I know the way from here, thanks!”, jumping out of the car.
“As you wish.”
The Archaeological Museum
Ever walked around a hushed and reverend museum with sodden clothes and drowned shoes? People look at you a certain way. Having been looked at in many ways before, I shrugged all off, to drip my way up to many a statue and plaque, looking for those that had been recovered from Smyrna, Ephesos, Pergamon, Troy and the Dardanelles.
Somewhere along the way, my clothes dried off and my shoes drained away water from the holes in their soles.
Leaving the museum became a timed skill – has, is, will the rain stop, or at least surrender for a few moments? People Squid Gamed their chances; most failed miserably. I survived all the way up to the open area that lies between Hagia Sophia, the Hippodrome and the Cisterns. The rain rolled back, with clearly vicious intent to wash the whole area clean of the milling bands and long snakes of tourists. I hailed a cab.
“To Taksim Square please!” I said directly, sliding into the seat. “And how much will it be?”
We set off.
“That will be 850 lira”, the driver said, over his shoulder.
“What! The normal tariff is around 100 lira!” I blustered.
“It’s raining.”
“I know, and I paid 350 to do the exact same trip in the rain to get here! 350 or forget it!’”
“OK I will do for 500.”
“Just stop. I will get out.”
“But its raining.”
“I can live with that.”
“OK I will do for 400.”
“350 or nothing.”
“OK”
The rain hammered down all the way as the long metal snake of vehicles slowly ground its way up the hill to Taksim.
“This is good, you can stop here please.” I said, given we were just a few meters short of the square. He stopped, I handed over 350 lira.
“Not 400 please?”
I glowered my practiced “you naughty schoolboy” look at him, smiled sweetly, and walked into the whirl of people sloshing their way across some very slippery paving stones. Close to the hotel I bought some supplies from a nearby store then, once in my room, stood under a very warm shower for a very long time.
One gentleman taking in the late afternoon sun as he sits on the sea breakers fronting Izmir's long promenade.