View across the Agora, looking up to the city's ancient citadel atop Panos Hill, now Kadifekale.

Pergamon • Day 1

Türkiye

September 23, 2023

Where Carla travels by metro and bus from Selçuk to Bergama by way of Aliağa, fortuitously steps off the bus to find the hotel close by and spends the rest of the afternoon soaking in its delightful rooftop swimming pool, ancient Pergamon shimmering atop its high hill in the distance. 

Time to head to Bergama, one time Pergamon. From Selçuk this means travelling back to Izmir, then grabbing the local metro line to Aliağa, quite some distance north of Izmir, then take a local bus to Bergama, which sits inland. Once at Selçuk’s station I noticed the local metro line extended from here all the way to Aliağa. “Just one change”, the attendant said. “You can buy the payment card from me”, which I did. A few minutes later the metro train departed; I was on my way to Aliağa, and for a much cheaper fare than the train and a much easier connection.

After Izmir the metro line runs close to the coast line, through the outer, then outer outer suburbs of Izmir, a mix of light industry and residential complexes. Eventually I arrived at the end of line, from whence I was told to grab the local bus. Sure enough, at the end of the main platform and a food stall (tasty sandwich, hot coffee!) later, the local bus stood ready at its stop, and it was very modern too! Swish of my credit card, and the fare was paid.

We passed by deep inlets and dry, rolling, sandstone hills before turning inland. Here the land is full of olive orchards and fields of wheat. To the sides of the road, lots of new buildings going up. As we drew close to Bergama, wheat fields became maize fields. The bus rolled down Bergama’s main street; I had a feeling to get off before the terminus proper, then regretted the decision straight after, as the road ahead was long, with the ruins of Pergamon visible on a hill far away. The hotel info said it was within 600 meters of the ancient site. I walked a short distance then decided to check my digital map. Incredibly, the hotel was but 50 meters away from where I had stepped off the bus.  The hotel, on the other hand, lies some 2.5 kilometers from the entrance to the acropolis. What double luck! 

Checked in, paid for the room, dumped my bags. I had selected this hotel primarily for its declared closeness to old Pergamon, but also because of the rooftop swimming pool – the photo of which sealed it for me when booking. Sure enough, a perfect pool, just waiting for me. The rest of the day was a done deal – nothing but swim and sunbathe, with Bergama laid out below me and magical Pergamon shimmering atop its rocky hill in the distance.

The Back Story

To wrap up this day’s post, here is the back story on Bergama and Pergamon. Obviously Bergama is a variation on Pergamon, the once mighty Hellenistic city state that dominated the region for many centuries. Held by the descendants of a ruler who famously got rich by keeping a great treasure entrusted to him by Lysimachos, one of Alexander’s generals, for himself, Pergamon was famous for its wealth, its trade, and its fine skin parchment (the word itself is derived from Pergamene work). When the ruling dynasty died out, its last ruler bequeathed the city and all its lands to Rome. That astute move assured its pre-eminence for centuries to come. Pergamon remained a major town for the Byzantines, falling to Seljuk Turks in the 1300s, from which time it is known as Bergama, a town renowned for carpet making.

One gentleman taking in the late afternoon sun as he sits on the sea breakers fronting Izmir's long promenade.